In his gastro pub in Abu Dhabi, Chad McGehee meticulously examines stainless steel tanks where a unique type of beer is fermenting—marking the first instance of beer production in the conservative Arab Gulf, a region traditionally cautious about alcohol. McGehee, a 42-year-old American, is a founding member of Craft, the sole licensed microbrewery in a region known for its arid climate.
As Gulf countries with oil-based economies seek to redefine their global image and prepare for a future, less dependent on oil, they are easing some of their alcohol restrictions. Entrepreneurs like McGehee are poised to capitalize on these evolving policies.
A few hours from Abu Dhabi is Saudi Arabia, the cradle of Islam, which maintains a highly restricted alcohol policy, with a sole store licensed to serve non-Muslim foreign diplomats.
Alcohol sales are heavily restricted in Oman and Qatar and are outright banned in Kuwait, and in Sharjah, one of the UAE’s seven emirates and a neighbor to cosmopolitan Dubai.
“We hope that we can make Abu Dhabi a destination people come to for beer, like Germany, New York, or San Diego,” McGehee told AFP on a recent visit to Craft, as patrons sipped beer nearby.
“We want to be part of that.”
The UAE has been gradually liberalizing its alcohol laws. Last year, Dubai eliminated a 30% alcohol tax and did away with permit fees required for non-Muslims to purchase from licensed outlets.
Abu Dhabi set a precedent in 2021 by permitting licensed venues to brew and serve their beer on-site, a first in the emirate.
Meanwhile, changes are happening elsewhere: this year, Saudi Arabia inaugurated an alcohol store in Riyadh, sparking discussions about potentially relaxed alcohol regulations in the future.
However, Saudi Arabia’s Tourism Minister Ahmed Al-Khateeb confirmed to AFP that the national prohibition on alcohol is to remain.
‘Whatever we find at the souq’
In 2019, McGehee launched Side Hustle Brews and Spirits, introducing the UAE’s first locally-branded, though imported, beer. Following the regulatory changes in Abu Dhabi, he co-founded Craft, which rotates between eight to 14 beers, some infused with local flavors like karak tea, a Gulf staple.
“We use whatever we can find at the local souq (market) to inspire our brews,” McGehee said at Craft, where taps are directly connected to the brewing tanks.
“We have incorporated local honey, dates, and coffee… we also have a beer that blends black tea with saffron and cardamom,” he explained, noting the key components of karak tea.
Historically, in the UAE, which has 90% foreign nationals, alcohol was restricted to hotel bars and primarily consumed by expats.
Alexandre Kazerouni, an associate professor at France’s Ecole Normale Superieure, notes that after Iran’s Islamic revolution in 1979, Gulf monarchies leaned towards conservatism. However, Abu Dhabi began shifting towards a more liberal stance in the 2000s, slowly easing social and alcohol-related restrictions.
This regulatory shift signifies a break from the stringent bans of the 1980s and 1990s and is part of a broader regional rivalry with Qatar and Saudi Arabia over who leads the transformation in the Gulf, Kazerouni added.
Party hub
With a goal to draw nearly 40 million tourists by 2030, up from 24 million last year, Abu Dhabi is also vying with Dubai, known as the UAE’s premier vacation and party destination.
Craft customer Andrew Burgess, a Brit who has resided in the UAE for 17 years, has witnessed the country’s transformation firsthand. Initially, public consumption of food and drink during Ramadan was forbidden for expatriates.
“You had to visit bars only at night when everything was hidden,” he recalled.
Despite these changes, misconceptions about life in Muslim-majority countries persist in the West.
“When I return to England, people often ask how I manage living in a Muslim country, assuming that my wife must be oppressed and that drinking is off-limits,” Burgess told AFP.
He believes microbreweries like Craft are instrumental in changing these perceptions.
“It’s all about reshaping how people think.”