Researchers found traces of Xinjiang cotton in T-shirts and shirts made by Adidas, Puma, and Hugo Boss. The move appears to contradict German clothing brands’ promise of revising supply chains following the allegations of forced labor in China.
Connection: Human rights violations and clothing brands
Cotton from the region of Xinjiang contributes to over 80 percent of China‘s cotton production. Additionally, it amounts to almost a fifth of the world’s production. However several reports reveal that more than half a million people from minority ethnicities such as the Uyghurs are being forced to pick cotton in Xinjiang. Last year, the US put a stop to importing cotton from the region. The move was also debated in the European Parliament. However, it was not acted upon. Despite this, several large clothing brands vowed that they will not be using Xinjiang cotton in the light of human rights violations in the region.
According to Hugo Boss- As of October 2021, new collections “have been verified in line with our global standards again”. Stressing that it “does not tolerate forced labor”. In 2020, Puma stated that it no longer has a “direct or indirect business relationship with any manufacturer in Xinjiang”. Adidas also stated the same and added that its fabric suppliers were asked to stop sourcing yarn from the region.
Xinjiang cotton in popular German clothing brands
However, contrary to the statements and promises made by the clothing brands, researchers from Agroisolab in Jülich and the Hochschule Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences in Germany state otherwise. “The isotopic fingerprints in the cotton are unambiguous and can be differentiated from cotton sourced from other countries and even other Chinese regions,” said Markus Boner from Agroisolab. According to the team, an isotope analysis study found traces of Xinjiang cotton in Adidas and Puma T-shirts, and Hugo boss shirts. Additionally, it was also found in pullovers by Tom Tailor and shorts by Jack Wolfskin, a popular German outdoor clothing brand.
In light of the new research, a spokesperson for Adidas shared a statement. “Adidas sources cotton exclusively from other countries and takes a variety of measures to ensure fair and safe working conditions in its supply chain”. When asked by researchers before publication, Hugo Boss stated that they do not tolerate forced labor in their supply chain. While Jack Wolfskin did not answer directly, they stated that their cotton was certified. “It is theoretically possible but highly unlikely that western businesses can say with certainty that there is no forced labor in their cotton supply chains in Xinjiang,” stated an anonymous auditor.