Luxury fashion house Dior, owned by LVMH, is renowned for its opulent handbags, apparel, jewelry, and accessories, often bearing price tags exceeding $1,000. However, a recent investigation has revealed a stark contrast between these luxury items’ high retail prices and the actual production costs.
Italian authorities probe working conditions
Authorities in Italy have launched an investigation into the working conditions at some of the factories manufacturing Dior handbags. According to documents obtained during the probe, Dior allegedly paid a supplier just $57 to produce a handbag that retails for $2,780, as reported by the Wall Street Journal. Similarly, Giorgio Armani was found to have paid $99 for bags that are sold for over $1,900 in stores.
Hidden costs and allegations of exploitation
The reported production costs do not include leather or other raw materials expenses. The companies also separately cover design, distribution, and marketing costs. Both Dior and Giorgio Armani face accusations from Italian authorities of exploiting foreign workers to produce their luxury goods at minimal costs.
Last month, LVMH was placed under court administration in Milan for allegedly subcontracting work to Chinese-owned firms accused of worker mistreatment. Documents reviewed by Reuters revealed that workers were forced to sleep in the factories to ensure “manpower available 24 hours a day.” Safety devices were removed from machinery to speed up production, allowing contractors to charge Dior lower handbag prices. Authorities assert that Dior failed to verify the working conditions at its contractors’ factories and did not conduct periodic audits of its suppliers over the past few years.
Worker exploitation is a pervasive issue in the fashion industry. In May, fast-fashion retailer Shein was exposed in a follow-up investigation by Public Eye for violating Chinese labour laws. Shein’s suppliers were found to be working 75-hour weeks for low wages in hazardous conditions, despite the company’s pledge to end such practices in 2021.
Financial impact on LVMH
The investigation into LVMH comes amid a decline in the company’s revenue due to reduced luxury spending by consumers in a tight economy. In its first-quarter earnings report for 2024, LVMH reported a 2% year-over-year decline in revenue for its fashion and leather goods sector, while its watches and jewelry sector shrank by 5%. The ongoing scrutiny of LVMH and other luxury brands highlights the urgent need for transparency and ethical practices in the fashion industry. As consumers become increasingly aware of these issues, the pressure mounts on companies to ensure fair labor practices and responsible sourcing.